I'm still busy, in the midst of my life's busyness, reading Justin Fox's The Marginal Safari, which I bought in Johannesburg last Saturday. I paged back a few chapters:
At Struisbaai, the sea was lime green and boats lay snug behind a harbour wall. Further on, the shore was fringed with serrated rocks: nowhere to land a boat, even in perfect calm, without ripping out its bottom. Fisherman in oilskins, their backs to the wind, cast from ledges into the surf. Then came the sad architecture of L'Agulhas, a dorp making a living off its 'southernmost' status. Cashing in were superettes and B&BS, German-style restaurants and the South Point Launderette. A pebble road on the far side of town led to the spot where Africa ends. I pulled off and got out of the car (pp 29-30).
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a writer's notebook: "write a little every day, without hope, without despair" - isak dinesen
Showing posts with label Struisbaai. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Struisbaai. Show all posts
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Welcome to Struisbaai
http://viewoverberg.com/Struisbaai.asp:
Struisbaai is a coastal village boasting the longest continuous stretch of white sand coastline in the Southern Hemisphere. Struisbaai, together with its neighbouring communities of Hotagterklip and Molshoop makes up a sizeable collection of holiday homes spread along the sandy shore north-east of Cape Aghulhas.
There is some debate as to the origin of the name Struisbaai. Some authorities believe that it means 'strawbay' and it earned this name by the fishermen's cottages that were originally built of straw. Others claim the name Struisbaai is derived from the Dutch vogelstruijs or 'ostrich'. The low shrub-covered terrain bordering the sandy coast is certainly ostrich country and you will still see a good number of these giant birds sharing the land with dairy cattle and Marino sheep. According to legend, Struisbaai is named for the size of its beach - an old Nederland word for "huge".
The fishermen's cottages at Hotagterklip (left rear stone) have been declared national monuments. They are often featured in the paintings of many South African artists. The unusual name of this little place comes from the days of the first wagon track, when a stone out crop imposed a sharp detour upon all travellers. Most of the old cottages were allowed to fall into ruin, until recently when the original cottages have been expertly restored.
A tarmac road continues along the coast beyond Struisbaai for 8 km and then ends at the village, holiday resort and lighthouse at the most southerly point of Africa …L' Aghulhas.
* I was last in Struisbaai exactly 3 years ago this month. I was travelling the Southern Cape coast for a travel article I was writing for a national leisure magazine. It was one of my first freelance travel journalism opportunities after leaving PR, advertising and my city life (and moving to Waterval Boven and plunging back into journalism). At the time the trip was a disaster. Only in retrospect was I able to see, and enjoy the inherent lessons. They were exceptionally painful and alienating at the time.
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Struisbaai is a coastal village boasting the longest continuous stretch of white sand coastline in the Southern Hemisphere. Struisbaai, together with its neighbouring communities of Hotagterklip and Molshoop makes up a sizeable collection of holiday homes spread along the sandy shore north-east of Cape Aghulhas.
There is some debate as to the origin of the name Struisbaai. Some authorities believe that it means 'strawbay' and it earned this name by the fishermen's cottages that were originally built of straw. Others claim the name Struisbaai is derived from the Dutch vogelstruijs or 'ostrich'. The low shrub-covered terrain bordering the sandy coast is certainly ostrich country and you will still see a good number of these giant birds sharing the land with dairy cattle and Marino sheep. According to legend, Struisbaai is named for the size of its beach - an old Nederland word for "huge".
The fishermen's cottages at Hotagterklip (left rear stone) have been declared national monuments. They are often featured in the paintings of many South African artists. The unusual name of this little place comes from the days of the first wagon track, when a stone out crop imposed a sharp detour upon all travellers. Most of the old cottages were allowed to fall into ruin, until recently when the original cottages have been expertly restored.
A tarmac road continues along the coast beyond Struisbaai for 8 km and then ends at the village, holiday resort and lighthouse at the most southerly point of Africa …L' Aghulhas.
* I was last in Struisbaai exactly 3 years ago this month. I was travelling the Southern Cape coast for a travel article I was writing for a national leisure magazine. It was one of my first freelance travel journalism opportunities after leaving PR, advertising and my city life (and moving to Waterval Boven and plunging back into journalism). At the time the trip was a disaster. Only in retrospect was I able to see, and enjoy the inherent lessons. They were exceptionally painful and alienating at the time.
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Oceanic blue
A friend - another Charles - that I've never physically met (we 'met' on the 'Net about over two years ago), keeps in pretty good communication with me via text messages. Through him, with him, I travel to places just on the edge of my radar screen. Places that fill me with longing, and contentment. Like the Southern Cape Coast, and in stark contrast, the Klein Karoo. Both of which I never tire of returning to.
He is, right now, down at Struisbaai on the Southern Cape coast. This was his text message to me at just after 6am this morning:
"Last night was lovely,with constant laughter with my friend Jay. We're going to look for bones and shells. And there is this place, just outside Struisbaai, with the most majestic magnificent white sand dunes. I love early mornings here. I'm still lying in bed, feeling Pantoufle's kittens move inside her stomach. Oh my wow. Have a blessed day¤"
Pantoufle is Charles' very pregnant cat. He's adamant to be with her when she gives birth.
I have a longing to be drawing upon the mighty Ocean's energy, also to imbibe deep breaths of salt-laden fresh air, to gulp in the wind, to feel sea sand massage and even the skin of my feet.
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
He is, right now, down at Struisbaai on the Southern Cape coast. This was his text message to me at just after 6am this morning:
"Last night was lovely,with constant laughter with my friend Jay. We're going to look for bones and shells. And there is this place, just outside Struisbaai, with the most majestic magnificent white sand dunes. I love early mornings here. I'm still lying in bed, feeling Pantoufle's kittens move inside her stomach. Oh my wow. Have a blessed day¤"
Pantoufle is Charles' very pregnant cat. He's adamant to be with her when she gives birth.
I have a longing to be drawing upon the mighty Ocean's energy, also to imbibe deep breaths of salt-laden fresh air, to gulp in the wind, to feel sea sand massage and even the skin of my feet.
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
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